New York Fashion Week: 4 shows as I saw them

Table of contents:

New York Fashion Week: 4 shows as I saw them
New York Fashion Week: 4 shows as I saw them
Anonim
Jill Stuart: Celebrities front row Nicholas Cinque, Chloe Curtis, Casey LaBow, Mohammed Al Turki, Sophie Curtis and Perrey Reeves
Jill Stuart: Celebrities front row Nicholas Cinque, Chloe Curtis, Casey LaBow, Mohammed Al Turki, Sophie Curtis and Perrey Reeves

In previous years, New York Fashion Week was held in Bryant Park behind the New York Public Library, but today the art center, Lincoln Center, serves as the center of the event. Already in the square in front of the pavilions, you can sense that something very cool is happening here: extremely dressed bloggers taking photos of each other, praising each other's crazy sets, people crowding for tickets. I visited four different shows during Fashion Week, and I learned for a lifetime that a big brand name does not guarantee sure success.

Jill Stuart, Mara Hoffman and Monique Lhuillier also presented their spring-summer collections on Saturday, September 7, and Jackie Fraser-Swan on Sunday, September 8.

Jill Stuart

"Last year was much more powerful" - I hear the editors of two seemingly important magazines behind me. And indeed, even though Jill Stuart promised to be a big bang, at the end of the presentation, the hugely inflated balloon did not pop. Despite the fact that the models went all out on various rock and roll inserts, the clothes were painfully made to fit.

The designer, who thinks in black and white and sometimes metallic, managed to create a monotonous, almost boring collection to such an extent that I was more interested in the celebrities in the front row than the show itself. It's not that we didn't like one or two ideas, the problem is that we didn't get anything outstanding either in terms of cut or color, which would have been expected from a Jill Stuart prestigious brand. Limiting a presentation to a flash of belly and skin is very trite these days, not to mention that you won't be running around in pale colors in the summer even if you're in complete lethargy.

'Last year's was much more powerful' - I hear the editors of two seemingly important magazines behind me…
'Last year's was much more powerful' - I hear the editors of two seemingly important magazines behind me…

Conclusion? Jill Stuart here or there, the final result clearly shows that the designer did not push himself too hard this season. From here on, it is also clear why Anna Wintour did not appear in the first row.

Mara Hoffman

The most energetic presentation of the day was undoubtedly Mara Hoffman's. The designer almost didn't organize a fashion show, but a party in the second prominent pavilion of the Lincoln Center: in the cavalcade of colorful clothes, the audience could hardly resist standing up and shaking with the models.

Rainbow-colored maxi dresses, Aztec patterns, and the coral color dominating everywhere made the viewer forget about the upcoming subzero weather. The clownish, yet casual sets reflected the lightness of the spring and summer months well, Hoffman executed the maxi dresses particularly well. The designer even had a specific vision for the models' hair, the braided braids extended to the bottom only enhanced the cheerful overall effect of the sets. The Rolling Stones hit that was played as the closing song of the presentation really gave a very good impulse to the end of the show, but it is certain that the clothes would not have been such a success without the decoration.

Mara Hoffman: the most energetic presentation of the day is coming!
Mara Hoffman: the most energetic presentation of the day is coming!

Monique Lhuillier

To me, a show would be complete if I were to pick up every single piece of the collection without saying a word - and that's exactly what happened in the case of Monique Lhuillier. Snake lines waited in the Fashion Week meeting room for the show, which started at seven in the evening, and twenty minutes after seven, they started to let the guests in.

I never thought that I would be watching the show from the second row, behind the entire "America's Next Top Model" jury, so I was able to examine Lhuillier's creation up close. The collection is clearly built on careless elegance: the clean textures, innovative layering, the thousands of shades of coral and red provided a perfect contrast with cream, pale gold or nude.

For me, a show would be complete if I took every single piece of the collection without saying a word - and that's exactly what happened in the case of Monique Lhuillier
For me, a show would be complete if I took every single piece of the collection without saying a word - and that's exactly what happened in the case of Monique Lhuillier

The designer envisions lace tunics and above-the-knee pencil skirts for daytime wear, but detachable collars and laced cardigans also strengthen the effect of changing silhouettes. Regarding the evening dresses, he did not work with black, but rather with chocolate brown, and in terms of tailoring, several alternatives appeared on the catwalk: Lhuillier sent strapless overalls and evening dresses with large barges on the catwalk.

Lhuillier also worked cunningly with the floral pattern: the tiny pink floral dress sewn on a butter-colored base was just as intense on the catwalk as the ombre-effect creations composed of different shades of red and red. In terms of accessories, they did not go overboard, which is not a problem, since most of the dresses had the effect of jewelry anyway thanks to the shiny sequins, the sets were topped off with gladiator sandals and studded, nude-colored high heels.

Lhuillier's collection was characterized by uniformity, the sophisticated tailoring and the soft fall of the clothes really came out very well on the catwalk. I would have liked to have seen a few more sets, and I wasn't the only one in the room.

Monique Lhuillier Spring-Summer 2014
Monique Lhuillier Spring-Summer 2014

Emerson by Jackie Fraser-Swan

The last show on Sunday night was a madhouse: people trampled over each other to get into the Emerson by Jackie Fraser-Swan show, which was much more solid both in terms of the number of people and the catwalk than the ones I've written about so far. The show didn't last more than ten minutes, which is not a problem, but I had more complaints about the clothes.

The collection wasn't uniform at all, the clothes didn't connect with each other, I felt as if the designer put it all together completely randomly - which wouldn't be a huge problem if the clothes looked stunningly good. But unfortunately, most of the creations had a particularly cheap effect, apart from the warmer made of all the colors of the rainbow, nothing else really won the attention of the onlookers.

It was a madhouse at the last show on Sunday evening: people trampled over each other to get into the Emerson by Jackie Fraser-Swan show
It was a madhouse at the last show on Sunday evening: people trampled over each other to get into the Emerson by Jackie Fraser-Swan show

The dominant color of the collection is clearly purple, which, if not on the dress, certainly prevailed in the accompanying hair accessories. Fraser-Swan solved the back stitching of the clothes with a translucent black material. In the end, the designer walked down the catwalk incredibly satisfied, holding hands with his two small children, which was also strange because no other designer took the trouble to venture up to the photographers.

Recommended: